In the refined context of the auction of Important Jewels on May 30th and 31st, 2024, three major Italian maisons stand out: Bulgari, MarinaB, and Buccellati.
These names evoke timeless elegance, international prestige, and illuminate the catalogue with their most exclusive and sought-after creations.
From Greece to Rome, the fascinating saga of the Bulgari maison reveals a strong connection with classical antiquity. Dating back to its founder Sotirios' move to the "eternal city" in 1884, its rich archaeological heritage soon became an endless source of inspiration for generations to come. This is evidenced by iconic pieces from the "Monete" series: one of the brand's most representative series, created by Sotirio's nephew Nicola around the 1960s, drawing inspiration from late Roman production.
Clear examples include a long chain with eight "Carlini" in silver from Roberto d'Angiò 1309 - 1343 (lot 716, € 70,000 - € 120,000), the tubogas collier with four "Statere di Corinto" (lot 728, € 70,000 - € 120,000), and the gold and diamond collier holding a pendant with a "Syracuse" coin: a unique piece commissioned (lot 729, € 60,000 - € 80,000).
Lot 716
BULGARI
Yellow gold chain necklace accented with eight silver 1309 - 1343 "Carlini" of Roberto d'Angiò, g 355.60 circa, length cm 101 circa.
Estimate € 70,000 - 120,000
Lot 728
BULGARI
Yellow gold tubogas choker accented with four silver Staters of Corinth coins, g 334.78 circa, diam. cm 11.50 circa.
Estimate € 70,000 - 120,000
Lot 729
BULGARI
Diamond and yellow gold necklace holding a Syracuse bronze coin detachable pendant,
engraved on the reverse of the pendant "SICILIA - SYRACUSE 317-295 AV. J.C.".
Estimate € 60,000 - 80,000
Among the most famous and sought-after models are the splendid "tubogas" pieces with their characteristic tubular band with rounded edges and no soldering, a must-have for the brand, featured in some necklaces (lot 657, € 7,000 - € 12,000) and watches (lot 656, € 6,500 - € 9,000 / lot 666, € 6,500 - € 9,500).
The continuous evolution of the signature is evident in equally extraordinary jewels: two solitaire diamond rings (lot 718, € 60,000 - € 90,000 / lot 722, € 14,000 - € 22,000), a "moi et toi" ring with Burmese diamond and ruby (lot 717, € 22,000 - € 26,000).
The exceptional artistic quality achieved in the 1960s is well represented by a pair of earrings (lot 714, € 28,000 - € 40,000), two brooches (lot 713, € 60,000 - € 90,000), and a bracelet, all embellished with diamonds and Burmese rubies (lot 715, € 90,000 - € 140,000).
Lot 656
BULGARI
Yellow gold tubogas lady's wirstwatch, quartz movement, case marked, g 137.44 circa, diam. cm 4.3 circa.
With original case and guarantee.
Estimate € 6,500 - 9,000
Lot 718
BULGARI
Octagonal ct. 7.90 diamond and platinum gold ring accented with two lateral crescent moon shaped diamonds,
diamonds in all ct. 9.50 circa, g 8.87 circa. In original case.
Estimate € 60,000 - 90,000
Lot 713
BULGARI
Pair of ruby, diamond, platinum and yellow gold brooches, rubies in all ct. 26.00 circa,
diamonds in all ct. 20.20 circa, cm 4.00 and cm 3.60 circa brooches, in all g 38.81 circa. In Bvlgari pouch.
Estimate € 60,000 - 90,000
Lot 715
BULGARI
Ruby, diamond, yellow gold and platinum bracelet, rubies in all ct. 45.00 circa,
diamonds in all ct. 33.30 circa, g 69.22 circa, length cm 18.0 circa. In Bvlgari pouch
Estimate € 90,000 - 140,000
An extraordinary list that is enriched by some unmissable accessories: gold and diamond clutches (lot 667, € 11,000 - € 16,000 / lot 695 € 14,000 - € 18,000), the 1970s Muratti cigarette holder (lot 655, € 3,500 - € 5,000), and the enchanting small bag in yellow gold from the 1950s finished with diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies (lot 703, € 16,000 - € 24,000).
Lot 695
BULGARI
Yellow chiseled gold clutch evening bag accented with a diamond white gold clasp,
inside mirror and black satin cover, gross g 414.04 circa, length cm 19.5, width cm 8.0 circa
Estimate € 14,000 - 18,000
Lot 655
BULGARI
Three colour glazed and chiseled gold Muratti Ambassador cigarette case, g 128.49 circa, length cm 8.3, width cm 4.3 circa.
Estimate € 3,500 - 5,000
Lot 703
BULGARI
Yellow gold mesh evening bag accented with diamonds and cabochon rubies, sapphires and emeralds,
white gold details, satin interior, gross g 379.19 circa, length cm 20.0, width cm 14.0 circa. In Bvlgari pouch.
Estimate € 16,000 - 24,000
The undisputed queen of jewelry, Marina Bulgari, with her bold professional choices, carves out a space of her own within the great family. A visionary artist and businesswoman, since 1976 she has become an incomparable figure in the world of jewelry under the MarinaB brand.
Among the iconic jewels of her production stand out some unique pieces, including the top lot of the auction: a custom-designed ring with a 14.67 ct diamond (lot 723, € 160,000 - € 240,000), two pairs of earrings from the "Pneu" line (lots 625, € 2,800 - € 4,000 / 702, € 3,500 - € 5,000), a demi-parure from the "Cimin" series (lot 626, € 5,500 - € 8,500), and a "Simona" choker embellished with a cabochon ruby and diamonds (lot 678, € 8,000 - € 15,000).
Lot 723
MARINA B
Octagonal ct. 14.67 diamond yellow gold ring accented with tapered and baguette diamonds,
in all ct. 17.60 circa, g 17.73 circa size 13/53.
Estimate € 160,000 - 240,000
Lot 702
MARINA B
Diamond, cabochon ruby, onyx and green glass paste yellow gold "Pneu"
pendant earrings, diamonds in all ct. 1.50 circa, g 42.60 circa, length cm 5.00 circa.
Estimate € 3,500 - 5,000
Lot 678
MARINA B
Cabochon ct. 10.00 circa ruby and marquise diamond yellow gold and burnished metal "Simona" choker,
diamonds in all ct. 0.70 circa, gross g 124.31 circa, diam. cm 9.6 circa.
Estimate € 8,000 - 15,000
Expressive peaks of the great Italian goldsmithing art are about twenty stunning creations signed by Buccellati.
Gianmaria's works stand out, such as the demi-parure in chiseled yellow gold (lot 620, € 8,500 - € 12,000) and some historical pieces by the founder Mario, including an elegant satin-finished leaf necklace in scalloped yellow and white gold finished with small diamonds (lot 694, € 7,500 - € 12,000).
Lot 620
GIANMARIA BUCCELLATI
Yellow chiseled gold braided jewellery set comprising cm 34.50 circa flat necklace with tapered ends,
cm 2.20 circa ribbon earrings and size 13/53 band ring, in all g 206.42 circa.
In original case.
Estimate € 8.500 - 12.000
Lot 694
MARIO BUCCELLATI
Diamond and bi-coloured glazed gold leaf shaped graduated necklace, g 137.3 circa, length cm 43.00 circa.
Estimate € 7,500 - 12,000
There are numerous creations with diamonds and colored gemstones of significant carat weights, such as the Sabbadini-signed ring centered by a 6.83 ct octagonal diamond (lot 720, € 45,000 - € 60,000) and the numerous large Burmese sapphires (lot 711, € 22,000 - € 33,000 / lot 700, € 16,000 - € 22,000).
Lastly, the natural pearls take a prominent place within the two days of sales, some particularly rare like those of various colors and sizes adorning a magnificent necklace (lot 725, € 26,000 - € 32,000) and the two large saltwater pearls enhancing the dangling earrings (lot 726, € 8,000 - € 15,000).
Lot 720
SABBADINI
Octagonal ct. 6.83 diamond white gold ring accented with small brilliant cut diamonds, in all ct. 8.80 circa, g 7.44 circa size 18.5/58.5.
In original case.
Estimate € 45,000 - 60,000
Lot 711
Oval ct. 11.50 circa sapphire, round and marquise diamond platinum ring, diamonds in all ct. 2.20 circa, g 13.78 circa size 17/57.
Estimate € 22,000 - 33,000
Lot 725
Natural pearl necklace with old mine diamond, mm 14.35 circa pearl and bi-coloured gold clasp,
diamonds in all ct. 4.20 circa, g 54.41 circa, length cm 86.5 circa.
Estimate € 26,000 - 32,000
Lot 726
Natural saltwater pearl, diamond and white gold pendant earrings,
mm 9.73-11.04 x 15.00 and mm 9.95-10.16 x 14.45 circa pearls, g 8.72 circa, length cm 3.10 circa.
Cased by Cusi Appended gemmological report CISGEM n. 26629 18/12/2023, Milano.
Estimate € 8,000 - 15,000